Fuel and Ignition

Fuel tank and pump:
The tank is fine, the stadard V6 engine normally has a flow and return so block the return off since holleys and SU's on the Rover V8 (as far as I've ever seen!) don't use it.

I bought a decent high pressure pump, lots of people use 2nd hand Jag fuel pumps etc but I just got a Carter from Real Steel for about £50 - you know its good for a while then. Mount the pump at the rear of the car, it should come with a mounting kit. I drilled two holes through the forward facing edge of the nearside tool-well so I could get to the bolts easily from inside. In this position the pump is close to the tank, reasonably enclosed so not sprayed with mud and water and easy to get to.

Use new flexible fuel line and re-use the metal pipes at the front if possible as they are good in the heat near the manifolds. Make sure its well secured all the way.

Run a fused supply from the battery (or a tidier supply from the fusebox) back to teh pump and earth it, switch it via an ignition relay.

Ignition:
Now you're talking... There are lots of oddities here depending on what you use. for instance I started with a standard Rover SD1 setup and ballast resistor. Got in a mess, started removing wires here and there that seemed surplus to requirements and still got on fine. Best thing to do is refer to the manual.

Tip: Bypass the ignition oil pressure switch, its a system designed to protect the engine in the event of oil pressure drop but the by-pass system for starting (when obviously there's no pressure) was a pain and I gave up preferring to take my chances the good old fashioned way with gauges - DO THIS (AND ANYTHING ELSE ON THIS SITE) AT YOUR OWN RISK!!

The simplest setup I found (and good for high performance tuning) is to fit a Mallory Distributor. The kit pretty much replaces all ignition wiring before it and comes with a simple wiring diagram, save youself time, get a better advance curve and fit a Mallory!